Ifixit ipad air glass replacement




Introduction

If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas. Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.

iPad Air Front Glass/Digitizer Touch Panel Full Assembly - iFixit

While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive. Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace. During reassembly, clean the remains of the adhesive from the case and the front glass if you are re-using it with isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips. It's easy to pinch a flex cable between the front glass and the iPad's frame during reassembly.

What's the Best Way to Remove Shattered iPad Glass? With Zack from JerryRigEverything

Be mindful of the flex cables and make sure they gently fold and tuck under the frame. If the folds in a flex cable are pressed completely flat, it may be damaged beyond repair. Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.


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  • My Problem?

Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case. Remove the single 2. To reduce the risk of a short, you can insert a battery blocker or a modified opening pick to disconnect the battery. Slide the battery blocker underneath the battery connector area of the logic board, and leave it in place while you work.

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip the tab on the home button ribbon cable ZIF connector upward. Use a the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to carefully pop the two digitizer cable connectors straight up from their sockets.

To avoid damaging your iPad, pry only on the connectors themselves, not on the socket on the logic board. Carefully peel the home button ribbon cable up off of the adhesive holding it to the rear case. During reassembly, wipe any dust or fingerprints off of the inside of the front panel assembly to ensure a clean display.

If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton polyimide tape , to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. Without the proper insulation, these areas of the digitizer can ground out against other components, causing touch input malfunction. The insulation is not visible to the naked eye, and is different from the foam dust barrier strips found on many iPads.

I did not complete this guide. Actually, I didnt remove the crashed front panel the old one as this guide. The edge of front panel didnt stick so much with the cover case, so I use force to tear off the crumbled edge. Be prepared for the "dust of glass", it will really hurt your body, if you plan to do as my way.

Additionally, there is another difficulty part of me. When I stick the new panel on. There is always some small dust between the screen and the front panel. Great guide, a lot harder with a cracked screen due to no flat surfaces for suction cup but eventually got it off, thanks. Use the spudger to gently push or pull them into the slot.

That's what I did.


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It's charging now so I don't know if it works yet or not. Screen keeps to be black, no image.

Put on a charger, iPad makes "boing" sound very quite every 10 seconds or so. Suddenly, after few minutes connected to the Macbook Air, iPad boot screen appears on iPad and device boots-up. Now, input is very sporadic and unreliable.

iPad Air Front Glass/Digitizer Touch Panel Full Assembly

Device keeps selecting items on its own and starting apps on its own, doesn't react reliably to user input. Seems as if the digitizer or its connection is damaged. Hard to tell, everything went ok, only problem was the removal of the old adhesive to have a plain surface for the new one. Select a Language: Help Translate iFixit. Sam Lionheart and 9 other contributors.

Difficulty Difficult. Steps Time Required 1 - 2 hours. Sections 4. Flags 1. Featured Guide This guide has been found to be exceptionally cool by the iFixit staff. Introduction Use this guide to replace the front glass and digitizer assembly on an iPad Air. Tools Buy these tools. Parts Buy these parts. Step 1 iOpener Heating. Add Comment. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4 Front Panel. Step 5. Step 6. Step 7. Step 8. Add a comment. Step 9. Step One comment. Browse Our Store. Step 32 LCD. Tools used on this step:. Step 39 Front Panel Assembly.

Almost done! To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. You're Finished! Author with 9 other contributors. Sam Lionheart Member since: How to put it back? Assembled back with a new digitizer. Powered on. As is, this is a failure, device does not work as expected. Data is safe though. We don't have that much stock available.

Popular Parts & Tools

Part Assembly Includes. Kit Contents. Once the adhesive is softened with heat applied by the iOpener, the adhesive can be sliced using the many tools included in the iOpener kit. This toolkit is designed specifically for the iPad, but works with all tablets, smartphones, or other electronics needing heat application in the disassembly process. The iOpener is heated in the microwave and is reusable. This product may cause issues with Apple Smart Cover. If this occurs, either contact us at help. Select a Language: Help Translate iFixit.

iOpener Toolkit

IF Identify your iPad. A-Stock used parts are in excellent condition. Notify me Out of Stock. Product Details.

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